St Henri is a time-honoured and alternative expression of shiraz, and an intriguing counterpoint to Grange. Released for the first time by Penfolds in the early 1950s (first commercial vintage 1957), it gained a new lease of life in the 1990s as its quality and distinctive style became better understood. Proudly, a wine style that hasn''t succumbed to the dictates of fashion or commerce. St Henri is rich and plush when young, gaining soft, earthy, mocha-like characters as it ages. It is matured in old, 1,460 litre vats that allow the wine to develop, imparting minimal, if any oak character. On the nose it''s lifted and racy, with bountiful aromatics including cranberry, Christmas cake mix, citrus (lime peel), fennel and olive. On the palate it has assertive tannins that build and pleases all tastes - the sweet - zabaglione, custard, raw chocolate (cocoa); and the savoury - (bone) marrow, star anise.